Some forms of collars were indigenous to China while others had been adopted from the Hufu of other non-Han Chinese ethnic minorities and/or from the clothing worn by foreigners. Chinese robes, such as the shenyi and the paofu as a general term, as well as Chinese jackets must typically cover the right part of their garment. Styles of garments which overlap at the front and close to the right side are known as youren (Chinese: 右衽; lit. The youren is also an important symbol of the Han Chinese ethnicity. The youren closure was eventually adopted by other ethnic minorities and was also spread to neighbouring countries, such as Vietnam, Korea and Japan. The youren closure is a style which originated in China and can be traced back to the Shang dynasty. Chinese people also wore another form of closure known as zuoren (Chinese: 左衽; lit. The use of zuoren, however, was typically associated with funeral practices. This funeral practice was rooted in ancient Chinese beliefs; especially in the Yin and Yang theory, where it is believed that the left side is the Yang and stands for life whereas the right side is the Yin which stands for death. Therefore, according to the Yin and Yang theory, the left lapel of a garment needs to be found outside (which is in the form of youren closure) to indicate that the power of the Yang aspect is suppressing the Yin aspect, which thus symbolizes the clothing of living people. On the other hand, the zuoren is a representation of the Yin aspect surpassing the Yang aspect, and thus, garments with a zuoren closure became the clothing worn by the deceased. According to ancient Chinese beliefs, the only moment the Han Chinese were supposed to use zuoren was when they dressed their deceased. There are exceptions in which living Han Chinese would wear clothing with a zuoren closure. For example, in some areas (such as Northern Hebei) in the 10th century, some ethnic Han Chinese could be found wearing left-lapel clothing. It was also common for the Han Chinese women to adopt left lapel under the reign of foreign nationalities, such as in the Yuan dynasty. It was therefore a taboo in Chinese clothing culture for a living person to wear clothing with a zuoren closure. The practice of wearing the zuoren also continued in some areas of the Ming dynasty despite being a Han Chinese-ruled dynasty which is an atypical feature. The zuoren closure was also associated with the clothing of non-Han Chinese, ethnic minorities, and foreigners in ancient times. Chinese texts, such as the Qiang. Based on Confucius’ sayings, pifa zuoren (simplified Chinese: 被发左衽; traditional Chinese: 被髮左衽; pinyin: bèifà zuǒrèn; lit. 101 As a result, the traditional way to distinguish between clothing of the “Barbarian” (i.e. non-Han Chinese), Hufu, and Chinese clothing, hanfu, was typically by looking at the direction of the collar. From the standpoint of the Huaxia culture, pifa was a way to reject refined culture and being turned into a barbarian. 103 When used by the ancient Chinese literati, the concept of pifa zuoren became a phrase, which held the symbolic of foreign people who were living a barbarous and civilized lifestyle; this concept also became a way to emphasize the customs differences between the Han people and other ethnic minorities and draw the line to distinguish who was were considered as civilized and barbarians. 103 The zuoren thus also became a reference to Hufu and/or to the rule of foreign nationalities. By the Han dynasty, since Confucius himself was the first person to use the phrase pifa zuoren to refer to Non-Zhou dynasty people, this phrase became a common metaphor for primitiveness. Of note, some non-Chinese ethnicity who adopted Hanfu-style sometimes maintain their left lapels, such as the Khitans in the Liao dynasty. The jiaoling youren started to be worn in the Shang dynasty in China. Garments and attire which used the jiaoling youren collar include: shenyi, jiaolingpao, mianfu, pienfu, diyi, dahu, and tieli. They were typically used by non-Han Chinese ethnicities in ancient China, but were also adopted by the Han Chinese in some circumstances, e.g. when they were ruled by non-Han Chinese rulers. Jiaoling zouren refers to the cross-collars which closes on the left side instead of the right side. Han Chinese women were also found sometimes found in the paintings of the Ming dynasty, which is an atypical feature. Collars which runs parallel and straight at the front are called duijin (对襟). They were also used to dress the deceased of the Han Chinese. They could be found with or without a high collar depending on the time period. Duijin could be used in garments and attire, such as beizi, banbi, and beixin. Yuanling can be overlapping to the right or closing at the front in the duijin manner. Yuanling could be used in garments and attire, such as yuanlingshan, yuanlingpao, panling lanshan, and wulingshan (无领衫). Yuanling banbi, which closes at the front in a duijin manner. High standing collars in the Ming dynasty are referred as shuling (竖领) or liling (立领). They appeared by the late Ming dynasty. Yuanling shan, Qing dynasty. 93 There were two main forms of high standing collars garments based on their types of lapels and closure. The dajin placket is also called xiejin (Chinese: 斜襟; pinyin: xiéjīn; lit. Clothing with shuling dajin (竖领大襟), also called liling dajin or shuling xiejin or liling xiejin, has a standing collar and a large lapel which closes on the right. Clothing with shuling duijin (or liling (or shuling) duijin) has a standing collar and closes with a central front closure. Square collars are referred as fangling (方领). U-shaped collar are known as tanling (Chinese: 坦领; pinyin: tǎnlǐng; lit. Tanling could be used in garments and attire, such as tanling banbi and tanling ruqun. This form of collar was influenced by the Manchu clothing. Pianjin (Chinese: 偏襟; pinyin: piānjīn; lit. The Manchu’s front overlap opening was a Manchu innovation; their clothing was closed with buttons on the centre front of the neck, right clavicle, and under the right arm along the right seams. The Manchu overlap was more shaped like an S-curved overlap; it ran straight to the right of the centre-front of the neck, drops down to the burst before curving to the right side. 63 The Manchu’s garments rarely showed high collars until the 20th century. It could be found without or with a high collar (e.g. mandarin collar). 93 The Pip-shaped collar were worn in the Qing dynasty and the Republic of China. Ma, Xiaofang (2018). “Study on the Aesthetics of Han Chinese Clothing Culture in the TV Play q Nirvana in Fireq”. Yu, Song-Ok (1980). “A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West”. Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Contemporary Education, Social Sciences and Humanities (ICCESSH 2018). Atlantis Press. Zhang, Weiwei (2016). Variation in metonymy : cross-linguistic, historical and lectal perspectives. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. Shi, Songge (2021). “Travelling With Hanfu: A Social Media Analysis of Contemporary Chinese Travelling for Artistic Photographs”. Zhang, Ling (2016). The River, the Plain, and the State: An Environmental Drama in Northern Song China, 1048-1128. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. The Museum of Far East Antique Bulletin 70. Östasiatiska museet. Xu, Jing (2016). A Chinese traveler in medieval Korea : Xu Jing’s illustrated account of the Xuanhe embassy to Koryo. Sem Vermeersch. Honolulu. pp. Kang, Chae-ŏn (2006). The land of scholars : two thousand years of Korean Confucianism. Tse, Wicky W. K. (2018). The collapse of China’s later Han Dynasty, 25-220 CE : the northwest borderlands and the edge of empire. Suzanne Lee (1st ed.). Dress and ideology : fashioning identity from antiquity to the present. Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Guy Stiebel. Kuhn, Dieter (2009). The age of Confucian rule : the Song transformation of China. Cambridge, Mass.: Belknap Press of Harvard University Press. Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association. Zhao, Yin (2014). Snapshots of Chinese culture. Xinzhi Cai. Los Angeles. Ho, Wei; Lee, Eun-Young (2009). “Modem Meaning of Han Chinese Clothing(韓服)”. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. Silberstein, Rachel (2020). A fashionable century : textile artistry and commerce in the late Qing. Kidd, Laura K.; Lee, Younsoo (2002). “The Style Characteristics of the Hwalot, with a Focus on One Robe from the Collection of the Honolulu Academy of Arts”. Jiang, Wanyi; Li, Zhaoqing (2021-01-06). “Analysis on Evolution, Design and Application of Women’s Traditional Coats in Beijing in the Late Qing Dynasty and the Early Republic of China: Based on the Collection of Ethnic Custom Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology”. Proceedings of the 6th International Conference on Arts, Design and Contemporary Education (ICADCE 2020). Atlantis Press. 유혜영 (1992). 돈황석굴벽화에 보이는 일반복식의 연구 (Doctoral Thesis). Wang, hanfu song dynasty Fang (2018). “Study on Structure and Craft of Traditional Costumes of Edge” (PDF). Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Economics and Management, Education, Humanities and Social Sciences (EMEHSS 2018). Atlantis Press. Yang, Shuran; Yue, Li; Wang, Xiaogang (2021-08-01). “Study on the structure and virtual model of “xiezhi” gown in Ming dynasty”. Journal of Physics: Conference Series. 1986 (1): 012116. Bibcode:2021JPhCS1986a2116Y. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press. Dien, Albert E. (2007). Six dynasties civilization. Zhao, Qiwang (2019). “The Origin of Partial Decorations in Gowns of the Northern Qi and Tang Dynasties”. Finnane, Antonia (2007). Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation. Zhao, Qiwang (2020). “Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties” (PDF). Bonds, Alexandra B. (2008). Beijing opera costumes : the visual communication of character and culture. Honolulu: University of Hawaiʻi Press. 王金妍 (29 July 2019). “Hanfu: China’s traditional Han-style clothing”. Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License; additional terms may apply. This page was last edited on 5 November 2024, at 04:33 (UTC). By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.